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Utah Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing
 

Scheduled Course - Mount Superior Classic Alpine Climb

Mount Superior Classic Alpine Climb

South Ridge, Mount Superior
South Ridge, Mount Superior
Photo by Tyson Bradley

The prominent South Ridge of this iconic Wasatch peak rises 3,000 feet from near Snowbird Ski Resort in Little Cottonwood Canyon, to the 11,050’ summit. We offer the climb in winter and summer conditions. Outstanding views, fun climbing moves, and an airy feeling make this a classic route in any season. Only a short approach is needed before class 3 & 4 scrambling and/or steep snow climbing begins.

Summer Conditions
(also see Winter Conditions climb)

The route is usually free of snow from mid-June until late October. Sticky rubber approach shoes are the best footwear, although mountaineering boots may suffice. We scramble up talus, grassy ledges and rock steps before gaining the ridge crest.

At least 1,000 feet of exposed climbing along the knife-edge crest is roped. Slings, passive protection, stoppers and cams are used to provide security. The guide will employ a combination of running belays, short-pitching and short-roping. The hardest move is rated 5.6.

Descent is either along the East Ridge and down to Alta via Cardiff Pass, or by glissading and plunge-stepping down the SE Face if snow conditions are right. Snowshoes are occasionally used on the approach and egress when the snow is deep and unconsolidated. This is a long-day climb. We typically start between 5-7 am and finish around 5-6 pm. The maximum ratio is 2 clients per guide. Previously climbing and/or scrambling experience is required.

The maximum ratio is 2 clients per guide. Rock climbing experience is a pre-requisite.

For more information and photos, visit the UMA blog post describing the Mt. Superior, South Ridge climb.

Winter Conditions (also see Summer Conditions climb)

From mid-November through June, the Suicide Chute, a classic, rock-lined, 40-degree couloir, is usually snow-filled. Crampons and ice axe are used, and we work on snow climbing skills before scaling the classic, alpine, knife-edge, mixed rock and snow ridge.

At least 1,000 feet of exposed climbing along the knife-edge crest is roped. Slings, passive protection, snow-pro, stoppers and cams are placed to provide security. The guide will employ a combination of running belays, short-pitching and short-roping. The hardest move is rated 5.6. Descent is along the easier East Ridge and down to Alta via Cardiff Pass. This is a long-day climb. We typically start between 5-7 am and finish around 3-6 pm. The maximum ratio is 2 clients per guide.

For more information and photos, visit the UMA blog post describing the Mt. Superior, South Ridge climb.

 
Course Details

2015 Dates

May 16, 2015
November 22, 2015

Saturday 
Saturday 

Duration

1 Day

Location

Salt Lake City, Utah

Fee

$ 215 per person plus tax

UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the clinic if fewer than 2 participants register.

Level

Intermediate. Rock climbing experience is a pre-requisite.