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Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering
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Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering
Mountaineering
(Alpine Climbing)
Private Guiding & Instruction
Scheduled Courses & Climbs
Equipment, Logistics & Reservations
Frequently Asked Questions
Mt. Rainier Guided Climb & Glacier Skills Seminar







UMA did an excellent job of teaching us the basic snow mountaineering skills of climbing, self-arrest, crampon usage, roping, anchoring...
                         - Michael Hannan





U.S. Forest Service

Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering
Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering
Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering
Private Guiding & Instruction - Mountaineering (Alpine Climbing)
Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering
Pfeifferhorn, Wasatch Range
Photography by Tyson Bradley

Guides are available daily for climbs and coursework can also be taught on a private basis. UMA is happy to arrange custom instruction that meets your needs for goals you are working toward.

Skills and Summit:
Many groups and individuals choose to spend part of the day working on skills, and then climb a small peak such as Toledo or Cardiff.  The start altitude is 8,600 feet in Alta, and the summit elevations are 10,500 and 10,300, respectively.  Each route has a mix of snow and rock moves in winter. There are good areas on the approach to learn and practice self-arrest, ice-axe, crampon and rope skills.

Mt. Superior, South Ridge:
This prominent, quartzite ridge rises 3,000 feet from near Snowbird ski resort, to the 11,050’ summit.  Outstanding views, fun climbing moves, and an airy feeling make this a classic route.  Only a short approach is needed before class 3 & 4 scrambling moves begin. 

In winter, crampons and ice axe are required, and we work on snow climbing skills on the way up a classic, rock-lined, 40-degree couloir. 

In summer sticky rubber approach shoes are the best footwear, and we climb grassy ledges and rock steps before gaining the ridge crest.

At least 1,000 feet of very exposed climbing along the knife-edge crest is roped. Slings, passive protection, stoppers and cams are used to provide protection.  The guide will employ a combination of running belays, short-pitching and short-roping.  The hardest move is rated 5.6. In spring the snow can be very solid and pickets may be used.  Beautiful cornices often punctuate the flanks of the ridge.

Descent is either along the East Ridge and down to Alta via Cardiff Pass, or by glissading and plunge-stepping down the SE Face if snow conditions are right. Snowshoes are occasionally used on the approach and egress when the snow is deep and unconsolidated.

This is a full-day climb.  We typically start between 5-7 am and finish around 3-6 pm.

The maximum ratio is 2 clients per guide.

For more information and photos, visit the UMA blog post describing the Mt. Superior, South Ridge climb.

Pfeifferhorn, North Ridge:
This mixed granite and snow ridge rises directly to the symmetrical 11,300-foot summit in the heart of the rugged Lone Peak Wilderness.  It is guided only during cold months in order to minimize rockfall.

We approach from the White Pine Trailhead, at 7,700 feet, on skis, split-board or snowshoes. A camp is established around 9,500-10,000’, often near the base of the North Ridge in Maybird Gulch. The approach is 3 miles, and takes about 3-6 hours with an overnight pack.

The route begins with a snow-filled gully that steepens to near 50 degrees before intersecting the ridge crest. Four to six belayed rock pitches go at 5.5, and crampons are worn for the entire climb.  The axe is in and out of use, and gets stowed behind the back for pure rock moves.

We descend the less technical East Ridge, and then usually glissade and plunge-step down a 40-degree snow apron back into Maybird Gulch.

The maximum ratio is 2 clients per guide.

Pfeifferhorn, East Ridge:
This steep ridge forms the left skyline of the peak in most photos.  It is safe to climb all year-round being snowy in winter and spring, and rocky tundra in summer.  It can be done in one long day or as an overnight.  The approach is the same as for the North Ridge (see above), except that the camp is usually made in Red Pine Gulch.  Access to the summit cone is along a high divide with magnificent views south and north.

Rates:

Custom instruction and short ascents:
Full Day: $299 for one person plus $125 for each additional person plus tax
Half Day: $179 for one person plus $75 for each additional person plus tax

Long and more difficult ascents:
$350 for one person plus $150 for each additional person plus tax

Additional overnight Cost:
$149.50 for one person plus $63 for each additional person plus tax

Rate Chart:

Private Guide
Full Day (6-10 hours)
Number of Clients
Total Amount
Amount per Person
Base Price
Additional Person
1
$299.00
$299.00
$299.00
$125.00
2
$424.00
$212.50
3
$549.00
$183.00
4
$674.00
$165.50
5
$799.00
$159.80
6
$924.00
$154.00
All fees are subject to tax.

Private Guide
Half Day (3-5 hours); 60% of Full Rate
Number of Clients
Total Amount
Amount per Person
Base Price
Additional Person
1
$179.00
$179.40
$179.00
$ 75.00
2
$254.00
$127.20
3
$329.00
$109.80
4
$404.00
$101.10
5
$479.00
$  95.88
6
$554.00
$  92.40
All fees are subject to tax.

Private Guide
Difficult Climbs or Long Day (10 or more hours)
Number of Clients
Total Amount
Amount per Person
Base Price
Additional Person
1
$350.00
$350.00
$350.00
$150.00
2
$500.00
$250.00
3
$650.00
$216.67
All fees are subject to tax.

Private Guide, Additional Overnight Cost
(includes group camping gear, dinner and breakfast)
Number of Clients
Total Amount
Amount per Person
Base Price
Additional Person
1
$149.50
$149.50
$149.50
$ 63.00
2
$212.00
$106.00
3
$274.50
$  91.50
4
$337.00
$  84.25
5
$399.50
$  79.90
6
$462.00
$  77.00
All fees are subject to tax.
Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering   Guiding & Instruction | Utah Mountaineering
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Utah Mountain Adventures
Phone: (801) 550 3986
Fax: (801) 486 8505
Mailing Address
2070 East 3900 South, #B
Salt Lake City, Utah 84124
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