The prominent South Ridge of this iconic Wasatch peak rises steeply to the 11,050' summit. Outstanding views, fun climbing moves, high-quality rock and an airy feeling make this a classic route in any season. The hardest move is rated 5.6.

Typically 1,000 feet of exposed climbing along the knife-edge crest is roped. Protection includes slings, passive protection, snow-pro, stoppers and cams. Guides may employ running belays, short-pitching and short-roping for security. Descent is generally along the easier East Ridge and down to Alta via Cardiff Pass.

Winter/Spring

• Approach via the snow-filled Suicide Chute
• Classic ridge above is a mix of rock and snow
• Crampons and ice axe are used in couloir and on ridge
• Max ratio: 2:1
• Duration 8-12 hours

Summer

• Route can often be scaled more swiftly than in snowy conditions
• Sticky rubber approach shoes are preferred footwear
• Climb South Ridge Direct rather than Suicide Chute
• Scrambling begins almost immediately
• Max ratio 3:1
• Duration 6-10 hours

How to Register:

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