Scheduled Course - Learn to Lead Trad Rock Climbing Clinic

Leading Trad Clinic

This clinic is designed for climbers looking to become competent leading natural-protection routes. Traditional (trad) climbing leaves little or no trace, preserving the natural environment of the cliff face. It is an essential skill for mountaineering, rescue, desert and big wall climbing. Trad leading opens a broad spectrum of climbs unavailable to sport climbers.

We will use "mock leading" on a top rope for security, while you learn the intricacies of placing gear on lead, under the watchful eye of a professional climbing guide.

Skills and techniques taught include:

  • Efficient and attentive lead belaying
  • Avoiding short roping
  • Climbing tips for leading cracks and other terrain
  • Gear selection and racking
  • Where and how to place stoppers (nuts) and cams
  • Protecting traverses for both leader and follower
  • Finding stances for placing protection
  • Building and equalizing anchors with natural pro
  • Tips and tricks for route-finding in crack systems
  • A discussion of future routes to practice on

Doesn't fit your schedule?
Any of our pre-scheduled courses can be run as custom outings. If you're interested in a course but the dates don't fit your schedule please check out our custom guiding options.

How to Register:

Undercling lieback on Perhaps in LCC

Learning Proper Gear Placement on "Mock" Lead

Photography by Lane Peters

Reaching high on Steort's Arete

Learning to Lead Trad in Big Cottonwood

Photography by Tyson Bradley

Course Details

2022 Dates

June 25, 2022 Saturday
July 30, 2022 Saturday
Aug 20, 2022 Saturday
Sept 17, 2022 Saturday


Full Day (8am-4pm)


Salt Lake City, Utah
Big and Little Cottonwood Canyon


$219 per person plus tax

UMA reserves the right to cancel or shorten the clinic if fewer than 3 participants register.


Intermediate. Experience with belaying and top rope climbing recommended

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Utah Mountain Adventures

P.O. Box 521809

Salt Lake City, Utah 84152-1809

Phone: (801) 550 3986

Fax: (801) 486 8505


Utah Mountain Adventures | Patagonia Utah Mountain Adventures | Forest Service Backcountry Skiing Utah, by Tyson Bradley